Words written in italics are in dialect

Sanguinelli:
Lactarius deliciosus
(mushroom)

Detina liked to collect mushrooms. She knew their particularities, the best days to collect them and the plants under which they grew. The season of the matote (boleti) was over and it had been generous. She had put away a good supply, and had even had to prepare a larger demijohn to store what she had foraged. Having heated a circle of the stove, she had placed it at the base of the neck of the demijohn with the springs. The glass had come off cleanly, and the opening was smooth and safe.

The mushrooms in the demijohn were preserved in a brine made with boiled water, vinegar, and salt – used only cold. On this day, Detina wanted to go out and gather Tron (Sanguinelli) mushrooms, and was putting on her worn shoes. The dog tied up in the yard outside barked lazily. This meant that he recognised someone who was arriving outside and, in fact, Pinota’s voice was immediately heard, asking: “may I come in?” There you go. Goodbye to mushroom hunting for today!

But Detina decided not to become overwhelmed by events, and sent one of her daughters out instead, reminding her once again of the plants under which to search. The Tron are born under the pines and are lively looking, with an orange colour. In their lower part they have a slightly bent corolla, forming a sort of rim.

Pinota was a dark woman in every sense: dress, apron, slippers, scarf, face, and nails. Nature hadn’t been overly kind to her; she wasn’t old, but she already had sagging jowls, and two canines protruded from her lips like a vampire.

Pinota lived in a two-family house and was constantly in dispute with her housemate Angelina over the poultry. Even that morning, according to Pinota, the usual script was repeated. That masca (naughty) Angelina had gone to her to claim one of her chicks. Pinota defended herself, saying: “the chicks that are under the grumet (a sort of inverted bell made with wire mesh) are all mine”. Angelina’s retort: “Well then raise the grumet and let’s see who is right”. As soon as the brood was released Angelina had thrown a “pious” and the disloyal chick had gone to her. Yet Pinota in the morning had counted and recounted the chicks and had found no anomalies. But Pinota often forgot the extent of her own arithmetical faculties: she had attended first grade for 4 years, without even the slightest hope of admission to the second.

While Pinota was reporting the events of that unfortunate morning, Detina had prepared the base for the Tron bath: sautéed garlic and parsley, a spoonful of preserves, and a saucepan of water with which to accompany the cooking. When Detina’s daughter returned, Pinota was still in the kitchen and Detina, reluctantly, felt compelled to share part of the mushroom collection. She suspected that Pinota had drawn her tale out on purpose precisely for this reason. Pinota went home with “la bagna d’Tron“. Lunch was served.

Suddenly, Detina felt a newfound sympathy for Angelina.

Marinella Bera
The names: Detina (Benedetta), Pinota (Giuseppina)

Fragments of Life and Recipes of the Past

Langhetta cuisine is well known throughout the world by professionals and food enthusiasts alike, and is greatly appreciated by all those who are lucky enough to experience it.

Our cuisine is characterised by seasonal ingredients, a varied bouquet of wild herbs, and fresh produce that reflects the diversity of the land in this territory. All of this has been put to use wisely through the centuries, building a treasury of culinary experience in each family, and introducing the distinct variations in style and technique that make our food unique. As in many kitchens, our cuisine starts with the simplest of local products, including those foraged ingredients that we find in the woods and pastures.  Since these are not cultivated, they cost nothing to gather, but add so much to the food. Just as important as the ingredients in what makes our cuisine unique has been the creativity and thrift – “the art of getting by” – of the women who have had to feed so many people through the years. Sometimes, it must be admitted, luck has also played a part!


In the past, gathering mushrooms and truffles, picking wild fruits, and looking for herbs were common pastimes for both men and women. They all had their own picking sites that they guarded jealously. Often, they would sleep fewer hours at night in order to dedicate more time to this activity. Back then, people very rarely sold the fruits of their foraging, and only did so when they were really abundant. Every “seeker” was very proud of the results of his passion, and reserved them for his own family. Because of this, in our kitchens there are many recipes based on porcini mushrooms and ovas. This is also why exquisite jams of seasonal wild fruits and truffles are common as a unique complement to the dishes of the season. In such a context, rivalry and savvies flourished, and I have asked Marinella Bera to tell us not only about the old recipes, but also about the hilarious situations that she remembers. At the moment we have: Mushroom sauce, Minestrone, and Mixed fry.

Marinella Bera has a passion for seeking out and preserving the testimonies that detail our history – a minor history, perhaps, but one that concerns all of us and our families. To lose it would deprive us of our roots. So thanks, Marinella!

Enjoy!
Giovanna

Marinella’s recipes

Bagna d ‘Tron (Sanguinelli mushroom sauce)

Words written in italics are in dialect Sanguinelli:Lactarius deliciosus(mushroom) Detina liked to collect mushrooms. She knew their particularities, the best days to collect them and the plants under which they

Mixed fry

Words written in italics are in dialect Go to recipe Memories Today Sergio, a nephew of Vigina, is coming for lunch and is bringing his girlfriend (morosa) to introduce her

Minestrone

(The words written in italics are in dialect) Minestrone, how delightful! Vigina, early in the morning, had placed a pot with water on the stove to heat. As the eldest

I recommend experimenting with the recipes. Marinella is available to provide advice. We would love to know the results. Write to us !!

Words written in italics are in dialect

Go to recipe

Memories

Today Sergio, a nephew of Vigina, is coming for lunch and is bringing his girlfriend (morosa) to introduce her to his uncles and cousins. Sergio is the son of Teresina, one of Vigina‘s sisters-in-law.
The two women have lived together for some years with their respective families.

It was a nightmare.

The two sisters-in-law were always quarrelling. Vigina had many children and was constantly exhausted. The doctor had said to her: “Eat lots of fresh eggs. As soon as the hens lay them, go to the hen house and eat them”. But this angered Teresina because, by doing so, the eggs could not be sold. The neighbours, grinning, used to say that the windows in the house of the two sisters-in-law never lasted more than a week.

Sergio is the only son of Teresina, and he grew up with Vigina’s children. He was always well dressed. As a boy, at Christmas, he would receive a bag full of marzipan in the shape of coloured fruits from the Infant Jesus, while his cousins received white and red sugared almonds. On Christmas morning the children traded their sweets, but Sergio demanded two sugared almonds for each marzipan fruit.

An exacting one, like his mother.

However when it comes to lunch, everyone has to be on their best behaviour. And particularly so on today’s occasion, since Sergio’s girlfriend is coming from Vigina’s hometown. For such an occasion, they need to prepare the mixed fry – the best dish of the house. The pig has already been slaughtered in anticipation of the meal – many of the fried dishes of the region are made with pork.

Recipe

The Piedmontese mixed fry has thirty-six components: twelve sweet, twelve savoury, and twelve based on vegetables. However, very few people still make it as rich as this. It is not a particularly difficult dish to make, and perhaps the most challenging component to prepare is the sweet semolina.

This is made from sweetened milk and a pinch of coarse salt which is put on heat to cook.

When the liquid starts to boil, the semolina is slowly poured. After another two minutes of cooking it is removed from the heat, and an egg yolk and grated lemon are added. The semolina is poured into a large, greased serving dish, and this is let to set for a few hours before being cut into rhombuses.

In the mixed fry that Vigina prepares there are veal steaks, breaded pork chops, liver, sausage and sliced lung which is fried without breading. There are also sweetbreads and the brain of the pig, which have both been previously boiled.

The sliced apples are put into a liquid mixture composed of white flour, yolk, milk and sugar. The amaretti are softened by dipping them first in milk before breading them. The night before, Vigina boiled a cauliflower and some fennel which, when later breaded, will be cooked in a pan. Carrots will also be cooked in a saucepan with some oil, salt, sugar, a knob of butter, and a bay leaf.

The only vegetables that are quick to prepare are the lemon slices which are used to degrease.

Among the most difficult components of the mixed dry are the frize, a type of long-prepared meatball. The black liver and white liver (liver and lung), the spleen and the kidneys are cooked in a pot with water flavoured with salt and bay leaves. Once the pot is removed from the heat, the offal is minced and enriched with milk, breadcrumbs, macaroons, sausage paste, and nutmeg. To work them more easily, lard and highly vascularized tissue is wrapped in the rissole (omentum).

Tasting

The hot, tasty, plentiful mixed fry is a success! Vigina knew it would be: it is one of her go-to dishes for special occasions like this.

Sergio’s girlfriend is a beautiful girl. An only child, idolized by her parents. It is said that every morning her father tells her: “Wait before you leave the house. I’ll see if it’s cold and if you need to dress accordingly “.

When she will be married who will act as her barometer?
God makes them and then pairs them.

Marinella Bera
The names: Vigina (Luigina)

(The words written in italics are in dialect)

Minestrone, how delightful!

Vigina, early in the morning, had placed a pot with water on the stove to heat. As the eldest daughter brought the vegetables collected in the garden, Vigina and the younger daughters washed and sliced ​​them in turn.

The potatoes were already cooking in the pot by then. There had been no time yet to remove the tubers and, in fact, they had used only one plant. They cut a large onion into thin slices. It had been brought to her by her brother Giuvanin, who was a trader of animals and often went to buy calves in the plain to resell them to dairy farmers. At the beginning of the Spring, Giuvanin had passed by the brothers of Bra and collected spring onions. The friars had taught him that it was best to take them early, as it was easier to transplant them in April, when they were “grosse pej d’in fi” (as big as a fig), than in May, when they were already as big as your arm.

Then it was time to prepare the beans – one of the vegetables that required less work. It was sufficient to free them from the pod and to then remove the film that covered them. The beans had been sown among rows of meliga (maize) so that the sprouts had a brace around which to wrap, to better resist winds and storms.

The carrots had not turned out well that year. Giulia’s crop, on the other hand, had grown as thick and dense as a head of hair, and she gladly gave a cavagnin (small basket) of her own carrots to Vigina in exchange for two dozen gallate eggs (fertilized).

Giulia had put on her Sunday shoes when she went to pick the carrots that morning. When she returned home later, she would put them on the kitchen’s windowsill – a trick she had devised to deceive her father-in-law. That morning, Giulia had not gone to mass. Every festive day, her husband’s father would come up from the valley where he lived and inspect the shoes. If they weren’t dusty then it meant that the son’s family had not gone to mass.

Giulia’s husband was angry with his father for this imposition, but the family were all aware of the old man’s weaknesses. He was known to be workshy, and he often directed an inappropriate amount of attention towards his younger daughters-in-law. His sons called him “the Catholic crin (pig)”.

After Giulia had gone, with the eggs rolled up in her apron, the faster-cooking vegetables had been put in the pot: courgettes, a large tomato, and a sprig of basil (which represents Summer) to flavour it all. Then it was left to cook over a high heat for at least two hours. Before bringing it to the table, Vigina grated a piece of seasoned robiola.

Then it was left to cook over a high heat for at least two hours. Before bringing it to the table, Vigina grated a piece of seasoned robiola.

“Moderno” putagè

The families in Trezzo Tinella often prepared minestrone. Sometimes they added to it homemade Tagliatelle, other times stale bread. The mother of Tumò  was known to prepare an excellentMinestrone. She would start preparing it at dawn, and by noon it would be dense and fragrant. Her son would sit and serve himself. Every time he filled his plate, he would put a matchstick on the table, and this makeshift abacus warned him when it was time to stop.

Gluttony is a sin.

Marinella Bera

The names: Vigina (Virginia), Giuvanin (Giovanni), Tumò (Tommaso)

Our Address

Cascina Bricchetto Langhe
Via Naranzana 22, Trezzo Tinella (Cuneo)
Tel: +39 0173 630395
Mobile: +39 339 3932189
e-mail: info@cascinabricchetto.it
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Welcome

Every morning, when I open the shutters, I think: "how beautiful Monviso is in the sunshine, or how wonderful are the clouds in the sky , or how magical the misty landscape, or, even how fairy-like the snowfall is!" and, when closing them in the evening – when I see the lights of the small villages in the hills opposite (Diano d'Alba, La Morra ecc.), and the lights of the houses scattered among the hills – I thank heartily my lucky stars that led me here, where you are surrounded by such beauty. (Read on)

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